ANEW #4: Matt Nash

Matt Nash, also an honours graduate of the AUT fashion school, last year investigated the "true Kiwi menswear aesthetic" and challenged our 'perception of how we perceive original menswear in NZ" with his honours range "The Hidden View: The reclaiming of New Zealand Menswear" as seen above. Matt reinvented the work, with the help of photographer Veronica Crockford-Pound, of seminal NZ photographer Glen Busch. More exactly, he carefully reconstructed ten images from Busch's 1981 book Working Men, recreating the 'wear and tear' of the garments and drawing form the inherent style and fashions on view, with detail extending to actually replicating marks on the walls behind the subject with chalk. The models wear masks made by Nash of the original men in each photo - which he recreated the clothing from. Attention to detail and a reverence for the past and its authenticity are clearly attributes of Matt Nash.

For this year's ANEW show, Nash, who also spent time working at Crane Brothers, turned his attention to creating a range of stylish, comfortable bags that tend to "work more with the body - as clothes do, rather than creating bag shaped objects." Nash has made bags for some years but decided it was time to complete a utilitarian, functional range which he thinks is "simple, only using black military style roller buckles and hand-stitched straps, in place of 'blingy' buckles or rivets."

There is considerable attention to detail across the range: "New Zealand leather is used for all the handles, shoulder straps and a triangle corner detailing that I repeat as a motif through the range. For the insides of the bags I have chosen a fine grey and white stripe Japanese poplin shirting, which when put on different angles for the interior pockets makes geometric patterns inside the bag."

Like his honours range of clothing he also references the past, happily:"I am a big fan of an old wives' tale and myth. The myth of gifting a coin in a bag bringing luck and safety to the owner is one that I love. For this reason I have a pre-decimal New Zealand coin sewn into the internal pocket of all my bags."

ANEW, yet old concept....

ANEW #3: Nadeesha Godammune

The ethos of the ANEW menswear collective leans strongly toward the hand-crafted so it made complete sense to incorporate the stunning fashion illustrations of Nadeesha Godamunne into the project. Having completed her masters in fashion illustration in 2010 with first class honours, Nadeesha is now lecturing at AUT in fashion illustration and forging a freelance career in the venerable art. Her work is informed by historical satirical artists like James Gillray and William Hogarth as well as contemporary illustrators like Julie Verhoeven and Del Kathryn Barton and has appeared in reputable publications such as The Australian Creative, Martin Dawber’s The Great Big Book of Fashion Illustration , Sandra Burke’s new Fashion Designer series and Prodesign. 

Nadeesha created these beautiful illustrations for the launch, big water colours that included pieces from the various ranges on offer. Collective member Matt Nash outlines why Nadeesha is a good fit for ANEW: "We really wanted her to be part of the event as we really love her off beat illustration style and thought that her works of the five men would really complement all of our work too."

Like the others involved, Nadeesha is on a constant search to create a new framework for NZ fashion and the creativity that surrounds it: "My illustrations break certain aesthetic boundaries associated with fashion illustration, in an effort to reframe perceptions of ‘ideal’ beauty. Through the reconsideration of line and form I challenge certain visual codes used to talk about fashion."

ANEW line of thought, then....

Handmade Revolution:: Special Giveaway

I'm pretty excited to learn about the Powerhouse Discovery Centre at Castle Hill. I didn't know something so cool existed - and just a stone's throw from me.

To amp up the cool, they're hosting UK contemporary artist and designer, Shane Waltener, to create an amazing, awe-inspiring outdoor art installation titled 'Outdoor Weave In' at the Discovery Centre's Open Day on Saturday 13th August.

But that is not all folks. As part of the Handmade Revolution program there's so much on - and I am sure there's something to pique your fancy: weaving, spinning, bobbin lace demonstrations, and activities for children including paper lace and mini rag-rug making - oh my!

The good news for YOU - dear reader, is that I have 10 family passes to give away. Tell me what you like doing with your smalls that is part of your very own handmade revolution. Lego? Playdough? Sandplay? Do tell!

To enter:

- comment (25 words or less)

- must be an Australian resident

- enter before Friday 5th August at 11:59pm

- winners will be contacted on Saturday and announced on pottymouthmama

ANEW #2: Glenn Yungnickel and Sara Andrews

All photos by Alexis Brooks, styling by Matt Nash

Glenn Yungnickel made a colourful splash last year with a capsule AUT graduate range that was literally, all red. At the ANEW collective launch Glenn showed his latest range, created in collaboration with knitwear designer Sara Andrews. The new collection represents the first complete collection from the Yungnickel stable and this time around Glenn keeps the colour blocking trend going with four tonal colour pallettes that can be mixed easily giving customers the freedom to mix and match the colours for their outfit. The four colour ways are natural, coming from the undyed fabrics themselves, the others are navy, cobalt and mustard.

Glenn's use of colour and dying is certainly a signature: "I really wanted to use cobalt for this range as it is such a strong colour take and resembles traditional workman’s overalls relating back to the initial inspiration. Most of the fabrics were picked out and dyed in each colour letting the fabrics dictate the tone of the colour it would pick up, creating the beautiful tonal variations from one garment to another in the same colour. By using the over-dying this creates a worn pre-loved aesthetic to the fabric of the garment. I like to use this wear-and-tear aesthetic within my own design to express ‘the passing of time’ and ‘the worn garment’ to give the garment a sense of memory."

The range is shirt and pant focused although Glenn already has favourites : "Key pieces of the range would be the completely seam-sealed waterproof raincoat in a traditional raincoat yellow. Another would have to be double pleat cuffed short taking reference from an Oxford bag in cotton. The collarless raglan sleeve shirt is another one of my favourites made in dyed linen shirting. Knitwear was also developed for the range in collaboration with knitwear designer Sara Andrews."

Sara Andrews has a Bachelor of Design and two years experience working for Crane Brothers to help inform her knitwear creations. Her involvement is indicative of the collaborative spirit within the group: " I collaborated with Glenn Yungnickel, and developed a range of knitwear to sit alongside and compliment his work. I have a very organic approach when designing knitwear, and I like to work directly with my fabric so I worked on a hand machine, mixing and blending yarns to create a strong depth of colour and texture."

Glenn and Sara reflect a desire to develop new trends in local menswear, an ambition shared by the entire collective. Says Glenn: "Men are generally reluctant to experiment with clothing that identifies anything other than a masculine perception of themseves. The idea behind the latest collection was to continue challenging the masculine take on colour, which I started to explore in the development of the ‘In the Red’ collection for Fall 2010. To ensure the consumer is not alienated by the experimentation with colour, where they would traditionally be quite conservative, I have used references such as traditional tailoring details to ground the work. I think menswear at the level of the market I am aiming at is underdeveloped in New Zealand due to the casual culture and lifestyle New Zealand men lead."

Refreshing words indeed.

ANEW #1: Rawiri Brown

Photos: Ngahuia Harrison

A couple of weeks back we attended the ANEW Menswear launch above the Eco Store in Freeman's Bay and we were taken aback by the quality of design, construction, finishing and overall concepts on offer from the designers involved. In the first of a series of posts about the ANEW collective, here are a few images of Rawiri Brown's directional range that was shown with a great, simple concept show. Utilitarian boys walked into the packed room, and one-by-one stood upon small plinths, motionless to classical music, Schubert's Ave Maria from memory. All stood, facing north for a further 3 or 4 minutes whilst Ave Maria played out before returning backstage. Such a simple idea for a show but so very effective. Directional the collection certainly is, so what inspired Rawiri down the clerical path? 

"I have been interested over the past years in creating directional menswear which challenges the stereotypical ideal of masculinity. This area of menswear has so much scope and potential for development - examining conventional menswear and ultimately whether certain traditions are still relevant for the future of menswear? For my first capsule collection I looked to clerical vestments and was inspired by the word catechize which means "to give oral teachings of christianity" and the way in which those oral teachings have been subject to change over time, traditions changing for a new tradition." All photos taken on the night by Ngahuia Harrison.

Back In The Habit:: Days 1, 2 & 3

I've snuck into my 21 day time trial by omitting to blog about it.

I've been walking for 3 days in a row. Only 18 to go.

This last week I've realised I've been putting myself last - and exercise, oh woeful exercise, it was way down the list. Actually, it wasn't even on the list. I have a hate-hate relationship with exercise that I am so keen to turn the beat around on. So 3 days in a row - go me!

Music that got me walking (and I may have even cracked into a wee jog):

- Sam Sparro

- Rihanna

- Prince

- Salt n Pepa

- The Strokes

Tonight I walked on a wayward route to the supermarket. And got chatted up by an almost-70 year old. Now that does not happen when you don't exercise. Right?

I'm wondering if I can crack my phobia of early mornings and do a morning walk. In?

New Face: Anna-May at 62 Models by Greg Novak

As NZFW approaches the local modelling world traditionally goes into casting overdrive as designers, stylists and agencies negotiate over models of choice. Internationals always have their part to play, we have our own successful faces and new models have the opportunity to make a name for themselves. Here, photographer Greg Novak captures Anna-May, a new face at 62 Models and just one of hundreds of hopefuls for this year's New Zealand Fashion Week. Hair and make-up by the redoubtable Natalie Dent. Anna-May wears Ann Demeulemeester at Wunderkammer and a selection of the model's own clothing.