Valentino, Couture Masterclass

Phenomenal. Inspiring. Magnificent. Gorgeous. Legendary. These five words go some way to describing the Valentino Restrospective; Past/Present/Future which opened at Brisbane's GoMA gallery last Friday night but only some way. Valentino Garavani requires little introduction to fashionistas as one of the world's great designers and the only designer to have been recognised by the French government as an official haute couture house outside of France. His life has been a sparkling cavalcade of fabulous women; Jackie O, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Nicole Kidman and Cate Blanchett head up a raft of movie stars, princesses and socialites who quite literally loved Valentino - many became close personal friends. Walking into the exhibition the stature of the garments themselves is overwhelming. This is fashion as art, and art as fashion...Blacklog readers, New Zealand or Australian who have been considering a weekend away in the next few months, we encourage you to make the trip to Brisbane to see this. It will be well worth your while.

Each of the garments has been 100% hand-sewn by Valentino's army of artisans and to see the absolute mountain of work, time and craftmanship that has gone into each creation is breathtaking, like great art should be. Every piece also has a life, and provenance, of its own and whilst the fashion trends that emerged through the five decades of Valentino's work are there for all to see, every garment on show transcends time, genre and trend effortlessly.

Above and below: Jackie Kennedy-Onassis's wedding gown

If fashion can tell a story, then each of Valentino's creations are a book unto themselves and there is a library of stories on offer. Anyone who has seen Valentino; The Last Emperor will remember the scene when Andre Leon-Talley enters the atelier to be given two kaftans, his signature look, by Valentino. It is only upon seeing the exhibition that we realised why he was so excited and happy with the gifts. The kaftans have been made from the same material as two of Valentino's quintessentially '60's pieces, one of these pieces is below and the other stands to its side.

We have a new appreciation of detail in fashion. The gown above has been encrusted with a sea of beading that is almost impossible to comprehend unless you see it with your own eyes. The man hours involved in sewing each of these tiny beads and sequins is mind-boggling.

The gown (above) was worn by the model's model, Veruschka, who was one of Valentino's many muses in the late '60s. The work (below) of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierre Paolo Piccioli is one of five gowns from the pair who assumed the mantle of creative directors at the House of Valentino after his retirement in 2008, and was equally fabulous to the eye. The house is in safe hands...

The white (and black and white) ranges of the '60's showed that, whether working in vibrant colour like Valentino Red or monotone shades, the great designer was often at the forefront of the fashion of the time. The '68 white collection was legendary for the near complete use of white in perhaps the most psychedelic year of all time. Valentino created masterpieces, no matter the palette or contemporary trends.

As we have said above, it is the detail in each creation combined with the masterful understanding of form, silhouette and tailoring that fascinates and enthralls. The remaining pictures on this post speak for themselves. Magnificent...

Valentino Retrospective; Past/Present/Future

Gallery of Modern Art, South Bank, Brisbane, Australia

August 7 - November 14, 2010

Brisbane, Australia's New World City

Oh, how Brisbane has changed. Whilst we have never officially lived there, we have spent large tracts of time in the sunshine city since the 1980s and have always enjoyed it's charms; its weather, beaches, architecture, sunshine, people, buildings, rivers, parks and places. In recent years though, the city has undergone a transformation that has, as Aucklanders, left us wishing and hoping that someone, somewhere - we're looking at you new Super City team, whoever you are - will finally do something about the municipal madness that has ground Auckland's potential as a fine harbour city, into the ground. Brisbane, take a bow, the South Bank area alone, home to the sprawling Brisbane Convention Centre, Griffith University, the fabulous GoMA and numerous other arts, culture and interesting people-friendly institutions offers much to visitors and locals alike.

We were in Brisbane this past weekend courtesy of Tourism Queensland to attend the opening of the wonderful Valentino Retrospective; Past/Present/Future at the Gallery of Modern Art, Queensland. The fact that Brisbane is the only city in the world outside Paris (Les Arts Decoratif) to ever host this stunning, substantial exhibition speaks volumes for the city, its infrastructure and the forward-thinking state government who are boldly pushing Brisbane as Australia's "New World City." The quality and breadth of the exhibition itself : 95 gowns from the "Last Emperor of Couture" from the late 1950's through to his retirement in 2008 and a further five equally outstanding creations from Maria GraziaChiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, the creative directors of the house since Valentino's departure, is enhanced by concurrent events in the area, notably the Brisbane Fashion Festival and a fashion and film festival held at the Australian Cinematheque that explores fashion and its relationship to cinema.

Further posts on the exhibition itself will follow but we had such a great time in the city with our NZ media delegation: Justine Smith (Tourism Queensland), Alice Neville (The Listener), Zoe Walker (NZ Herald), Carolyn Enting and Casey Taylor (Dominion Post) and Lucas De Jong/Charlie Vlassof (TVNZ) that we felt compelled to mention a few highlights:

1. GoMA

If there is one thing that struck us about GoMA, aside from the perfectly blended Scott

Redford (Black arts section, issue 3) statue outside (below), it is the sheer size and height of

the gallery and space for the artworks. Two halls house the Valentino retrospective and a more public space (above) screens videos and the Valentino journey in print. Set on the banks of the river, GoMA is beautiful gallery.

2. The weather

During the Brisbane spring of August through November, which is coincidentally the length of the Valentino exhibition, Brisbane has some of the finest weather in the world. Repetitive days of still, clear 20 - 25 degree pristine sunshine are the norm and the wind doesn't make much of an appearance. This obviously makes walking, outdoor dining or catching a City Cat down the Brisbane river that much more enjoyable but it also means pretty much everyone is in a good mood, ideal in a tourist sense. We stayed at Rydges South Bank where the rooms and service was good and hundreds of cafes, restaurants and the aforementioned cultural institutions were an easy five minute walk in all directions.

3. Dell Ugo Ristorante Italiano

On Saturday night prior to attending the Group Show at the Fashion Festival, Justine took us to Del Ugo on Grey Street in South Bank. The service was exemplary and the food devine. Highlights were the Aussie Wagyu steak which was bounteous and mouth-wateringly juicy, and the Sea Perch rolled in fine carrot. Dinner was rounded out with a round of Grappa and much eye squinting.

4. Emporium and James Street

Fortitude Valley has long been the Bohemian style centre of Brisbane but recent developments have added to its fashionable mien. The Emporium centre on Ann Street includes the beautiful boutique Emporium Hotel, a lane way shopping centre with great bookshops, restaurants, a paper specialist, a cute kiddies clothing store and the fabulous French restaurant Belle Epoque which offers a delicious date-topped creme brulee for dessert. Within walking distance is the James Street enclave which is firming up as Brisbane's key fashion shopping destination and is home to many more quality bars and restaurants. Perhaps one day, Auckland's town planners will create something similar with the Victoria Park Market area or the side streets of Karangahape Road...

5. Francis Leon

James Street is also home to Francis Leon- Studio One. Francis Leon is one of Brisbane's rising fashion stars and was the clear standout designer at the Fashion Festival group show we attended on Saturday evening, although it was great to see local labels Zambesi, Kate Sylvester, Nom D and Cybele included as part of the Lylah Boutique show on the same card. Only three season's old, Francis Leon is the brainchild of high school friends and design team Jo Turner and Kate Lysaught and their third range, fittingly entitled "Three" was an accomplished range of sleek, chic, feminine casual-wear, dresses and jackets. Their store, which features a unique studio environment - the cutting table is in store - is creative and classy and they were warm and welcoming to the Kiwi contingent with bubbly and tasty nibbles. The girls stock World in their Brisbane store and are looking for New Zealand outlets...

6. Character

After living in Australia, and having spent much time there over the years, we are forever reminded of the Australian penchant for demonstrating and celebrating character. Australians love a good yarn, appreciate the manifold differences in humankind, and have a rich history of battler successes, survivor tales, and making good - call it the convict gene, call it Australian but it's a quality national trait. After experiencing the tourist hubbub of South Bank we decided to traipse out of town toward Woolloongabba to find a pub. We quickly found the Brisbane Brewhouse on Stanley Street, a very fine pale ale called BPA, and had the opportunity to meet Ian and Heikki (above with Rachael). Ian came and sat at our table and we were soon deep in conversation. His accent tweaked our curiosity and before long he had us embroiled in a game of "Where was I born?" It took us a full twenty minutes to ascertain, after he made a triangle sign, that he was born in Bermuda, the sharp 80-year-old gave nothing away. Ian had spent 40 years working in the publishing industry, in several countries, and spotted Rachael's Penguin classic The Philosophy of Andy Warhol in her bag. Over a few pots he regaled us with stories of Sir Allen Lane, Penguin's founder, the peculiarities of bookstores in Dunedin and Invercargill and the profound effect the world's only steam clock in Vancouver had had on him as an 8 year-old. Heikki had come to Brisbane in the 80's after watching ultra Aussie Paul Hogan's TV show because he said his native Helsinki, Finland "was freezing." What a pleasure...

After a few days, Brisbane really does feel like Australia's new world city.

this is one is by far my favorite that i've done in a long time.
the colors make me smile.








grace potter is amazing

Blacklisted #4

It's all about Eve

Yesterday we shot brand new face at August Models, Eve. She had never really modelled before but we quickly discovered that she was a natural in front of the camera. She has a number of other attributes that suggest she may be on the eve of something big (sorry); a great, quirky face with beautiful jawline, a unique mouth and nose, beautiful hair, great personal style, a great figure and plenty behind the eyes. Lensman David Shields captured her beauty, Rachael Churchward styled and Shirley Simpson (of the S-Doubles) was on the hair and make-up. Rachael dressed her in Bettina Liano (above) and Bettina Liano and Glassons skirt (below). One to watch? Definitely...

A little natural beauty from Ecoya

When Captain Cook arrived at Botany Bay in Australia a few years back, he had on board one Joseph Banks, a botanist who was overwhelmed at the array of flora and fauna he found in the bay. Fitting then that Ecoya, the brand of luxury candles and bathroom goodies made from ecologically sound products should have it's headquarters on Joseph Banks Drive, Botany Bay, Sydney. The company was founded by Craig Scheighhoffer, who in turn, had in involvement in NZ luxury vodka brand 42 Below's success story. The investment in Geoff Ross, Grant Baker and Stephen Sinclair's iconic brand has now been returned with the trio now partners in Ecoya. Just like 42 Below, Ecoya is a quality brand with quality products and a global vision made by New Zealanders and Australians. Love it.

The Naked and Famous to be Famous?

The Naked and Famous recently went to number one on the the New Zealand charts with the sublime single off their new album, Young Blood. Listening to some of the other tracks off the forthcoming album, including the creeping genius of The Sun, suggests that before the year is out this band could easily be riding the bus toward international fame and recognition. All of the key elements of a great band are in place as this video, from the band's website of a live-to-air performance on C4, testifies. Nice live performance direction by Mike Carpinter. The awesome video for Young Blood by the talented Special Problems is also on the band's website.

The Naked And Famous - The Sun (C4 Live Sessions at York St. Studios) from The Naked And Famous on Vimeo.

Highlights of a Heaven to Hell Hollywood by David LaChapelle, from Taschen.

Nothing says "Hollywood" like David LaChapelle's new book, Heaven To Hell. At 350-odd pages, it's a cornucopia of colourful celebs, actors, musicians and everyday (Hollywood) weirdos, acting out ultra-chintzy conceptions that only LaChappelle can see. Paris, Courtney, Pam, Britney and, Philip Johnson, sit side-by-side in Sunset caravans, hotel rooms and swimming pools with the fabulous Amanda Lepore, Elton (I've got eggs on my face) John, Michael Jackson and Elizabeth Taylor, Lance Armstrong, and a consummate cavalcade of inner American trailor trash and celebrities. Serendipitously, whilst thumbing through this book at about one page per second, we discovered the Julia Dean's tune Skin (Everything Is Coming To A Halt) to be frighteningly perfect musical accompaniment....speed reading picture books to music? Book clubs will never be the same...

musicians and performers have great style

New stories from Julia

Modern Fables starts with Ice Cream, runs through the wishes of friends and ends with the clear skinned dialogue of a recovered modern fable. That probably doesn't make much sense but if you look at the track listing for Julia Dean's new album, it might. Modern Fables is an accomplished album from one of New Zealand music's more accomplished female singers. Songs such as Skin (Everything Is Coming To A Halt), High and Clear, the title track and the utterly lovely Little Survivor make this an unmissable outing from the Kiwi songstress...

nicolas cage, "wild at heart" = i fell in love

i have a serious girl crush on drew barrymore, always have